Chubu, Japan · Town / small city, Mountain
One of Japan's great hidden Buddhas: a seated bronze statue 17 metres tall, the largest indoor Buddha in the country, inside Seidai-ji Temple, with a five-story pagoda reached by elevator and a stone garden recreating the Nine-Dragon Wall.
Train — Hokuriku Shinkansen ('Tsurugi') from Kanazawa to Fukui (about 30-40 min), then the private Echizen Railway Katsuyama-Eiheiji Line to Katsuyama Station (about 55 min) and a short community bus or taxi to the temple (about 10-20 min). The Kanazawa-Fukui leg is covered by the National JR Pass, but the Echizen Railway leg is a private line unrelated to JR.
A seated bronze statue 17 metres tall, the largest indoor Buddha in Japan, inside Seidai-ji Temple; despite its size, it sees almost no foreign tourism.
Founded in 717, it grew to six thousand monks and nearly fifty temples until a peasant uprising razed it in 1574. What remains is a forest of ancient cedars with a blanket of moss covering the stones of the lost monastic city.
Next to the Great Buddha, a five-story pagoda with an elevator up to a view over the grounds, and a treasure hall with a stone garden recreating Beijing's Nine-Dragon Wall.
At the Kitadani quarry you chip at rock with a hammer and safety goggles, and whatever turns up is identified by the museum's palaeontologists: Fukui is Japan's dinosaur prefecture. Advance booking and a limited season.
About 40 minutes by car: the head temple of Soto Zen, founded in 1244 among giant cedars, where you can meditate with the monks and even stay overnight on their timetable.
Archaeologists have unearthed entire paved streets beside the shrine, and the adjoining museum reconstructs what that city of monks was like before its destruction.
About 10 minutes from the Great Buddha, one of the three largest dinosaur museums in the world, built next to the quarries where several species unique to Japan were found.
The 2023 extension added a large-format immersive theatre and a fossil preparation laboratory visible from the hall.
Hot springs at the foot of the sacred mountain, without the crowds of the prefecture's big spa towns.
In late February, 12 platforms spread across the districts with dancers in red kimono to the sound of the shamisen; on Sunday night all the bonfires are lit at once.
The largest ski resort in western Japan, with a continuous run of almost 6 kilometres and a hotel with onsen at the foot of the slopes.
Fukui katsudon comes with Worcester sauce instead of egg, soba is served with grated hot radish, and in winter Echizen crab rules.
Before the dinosaurs, Katsuyama lived on silk: this mill keeps its looms running, entry is free and there are workshops with cocoons and thread.
Electric bikes at the station to link Heisenji, the dinosaur museum and the riverbank without depending on the bus.
An eating house from 1897 designated a cultural property, famous for the umbrella-shaped ceiling of its upper room.
A museum keep of almost 58 metres, the tallest in Japan, with feudal lords' armour, battle screens and a tea room at the top.
Katsuyama is Echizen's gateway to Hakusan, one of Japan's three sacred mountains; the historic route starts precisely at Heisenji.
Outside the snow season the resort opens for grass sledging, Segway rides and a viewpoint known for its sea of clouds at dawn.
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