Kyushu, Japan · Mountain
A volcanic plateau at 1,200m in the heart of Kirishima-Yaku National Park, with deep-blue crater lakes (Rokkannonmi, Byakushi), the climb up Mount Karakuni-dake along a ridge of volcanic peaks, and susuki (Japanese pampas grass) fields that turn pink in late summer.
Car — Currently no direct public transport from the Miyazaki side (buses from Kobayashi and Miyazaki were suspended due to volcanic activity in the area); from the Kagoshima side, 2-3 buses a day connect Maruo Onsen with Ebino Kogen (30 min, ¥500), though reaching Maruo Onsen itself first requires a train plus another bus from Kagoshima. A rental car is strongly recommended.
A roughly 2-hour loop trail between deep-blue crater lakes, with an optional 1-hour detour to Lake Byakushi.
The national park's official route: almost ten kilometres climbing to the roof of the Kirishima range at 1,700 metres and dropping around Onami-ike, the highest crater lake in Japan. In clear weather you see Kinko Bay, Sakurajima and Shinmoedake. Warning: the stretch between Onami-ike and Karakuni via Shishido-dake is closed because of the Shinmoedake alert level.
A steep roughly 2-hour climb to the summit of Kirishima's highest volcano, with a 12km ridge trail linking several volcanic peaks.
From mid-May to mid-June the dwarf azalea endemic to these volcanoes turns the slopes of Karakuni and the whole plateau purplish red. It is the absolute peak season: car parks full and trails crowded even on weekdays.
On the slope of Mount Shiratori, between the plateau and the valley. It has an indoor bath, a rotenburo overlooking the Kakuto basin and, the main draw, a wooden steam bath fed directly by fumaroles. Saigo Takamori spent three months here after losing the debate over the invasion of Korea, and eggs and vegetables can be cooked in the steam vents.
A flat walk through the forest to a crater lake of intense cobalt blue. Current status: the full circuit of the lakes is closed, so you go out and come back the same way.
A municipal campsite with pitches and cabins at the trailheads, with onsen access. Because of the altitude and the complete absence of lights, the night sky is exceptional.
A farmers' market with Ebino rice, which is highly regarded, mountain vegetables and wagyu. It is the resupply stop before heading up to the plateau.
Almost eight kilometres of medium difficulty, with 400 metres of steep climbing. The crater of Koshiki-dake, half a kilometre across, holds a low peat bog, a rarity in southern Kyushu, and from Ebino-dake there is a 360-degree panorama. It is far quieter than Karakuni.
In October and November the miscanthus plains turn golden and the sika deer come down to graze at dusk, with plenty of mountain birdlife. Do not feed them, and during the rut, from September to November, the stags are aggressive.
A small hot spring town next to the station on the Kitto line, with two public day baths and several modest ryokan. It is everyday onsen Japan, with no international tourism.
The public lodge on the plateau opens its baths to day visitors, and there is a foot bath station freely accessible 24 hours a day. It is the only hot spring infrastructure at 1,200 metres, and it is worth confirming that it is open, as the complex has suffered closures due to volcanic activity.
At 1,200 metres it snows and freezes regularly: the lakes freeze over and rime ice forms on the trees. Winter tyres or chains are compulsory on the access road.
A wild crabapple designated a National Natural Monument that grows wild nowhere else in the world, concentrated around Ebino-dake. The flowering window is barely two weeks, spanning late April and early May.
The town's distillery produces its own imo-jochu. Warning: the shochu-making experience that appears in several prefectural guides is not in Ebino but in Miyakonojo, more than an hour away.
Now in its 38th edition and traditionally held in February, starting at the Ebino green park. Confirm the date on the race website, which is also where registration opens.
Expansive highland grasslands that turn a golden pink in late summer, with Mount Io — currently off-limits due to volcanic activity — in the background.
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