Kinugawa Onsen

Kanto, Japan · Mountain

A hot spring town along the Kinugawa River gorge, with traditional ryokan perched over the canyon, the Tobu World Square theme park (1:25-scale miniature replicas of world monuments, from the Parthenon to Tokyo Tower), walks and boat rides along the gorge itself, and, further up the valley, the gateway to even more remote hot springs like Yunishigawa and Okukinu.

The essentials

Getting there

Train — Direct Tobu limited express from Asakusa, no transfer, ~2h, ¥3,040-3,730 depending on train type (upper end taken here). 100% private Tobu line, with no JR relationship. For anyone based in Nikko, a local train via a transfer at Shimo-Imaichi takes just 45min for ¥330 — much cheaper and shorter than going back to Tokyo.

Frequently asked questions about Kinugawa Onsen

What to do in Kinugawa Onsen: 22 activities

• Hot spring ryokan over the gorge 2 h must-see

  Traditional ryokan perched directly over the Kinugawa River canyon, many with open-air baths (rotenburo) overlooking the gorge.

• River descent by boat (line kudari) 1 h

  Forty minutes in a flat wooden boat between rocks and rapids, with the boatman narrating the landscape; it does not operate from late November to mid-April.

• Yunishigawa snow hut festival 2.5 h only late January to early March

  From late January to early March, some seven hundred miniature snow huts lit with candles cover the riverbank in the neighbouring village of Yunishigawa.

• Edo Wonderland (Nikko Edomura) 4 h

  A theme park set in the Edo period, with recreated streets and samurai residences, ninja shows, and the chance to dress up as a samurai or a princess; about 20 minutes by bus from Kinugawa Onsen station.

• Kinugawa Gorge walk 1.5 h

  Trails and viewpoints along the rocky canyon carved by the Kinugawa River, with suspension bridges and volcanic rock formations. From the walkway you can also see the shells of several hotels abandoned in the bubble era, which the council has spent years demolishing: they are to be looked at from the public road, since going inside is a criminal offence as well as dangerous.

• Ryuokyo Gorge 3 h

  Six kilometres of trail through a gorge whose rock changes colour (purple, green and white, the 'three dragons' that give it its name), with waterfalls along the way.

• Tobu World Square 2.5 h

  A theme park with 1:25-scale miniature replicas of more than 100 world monuments, from the Parthenon to Tokyo Tower, with animated figures.

• Day bathing at the large hotels 1.5 h

  Several ryokan open their baths above the river to visitors who are not staying, a convenient option if the town is done as a day trip.

• Fireworks over the gorge 1.5 h only Saturdays from August to early October

  In summer fireworks are set off over the canyon, visible from the bridges and from the terraces of the ryokan themselves.

• Foot baths beside the station 0.5 h

  Free foot baths right as you step off the train, the quickest way to try the town's waters.

• Goryuo Shrine and its dragon festival 1.5 h

  Shrine of the dragon god beside the river; on July 25 and 26 its festival is held, with a mikoshi of a thousand lanterns and fireworks over the gorge.

• Heike no Sato, the village of the fugitives 2 h

  A reconstructed village of thatched houses commemorating the survivors of the Heike clan who hid in these mountains after losing the war of the 12th century.

• Kawaji Onsen 2 h

  A neighbouring hot spring town with much softer water and a quiet atmosphere, a good counterpoint to the bustle of Kinugawa's big hotels.

• Kinugawa demon festival 2 h only late January to late February

  From late January to late February, oni demons, taiko drums and even a themed steam train take over the town.

• Nikko-bori carving workshop 1.5 h booking

  Woodcarving with the curved gouge characteristic of the craftsmen who decorated the Nikko shrines.

• Rafting on the Kinugawa 3 h booking

  A descent by inflatable raft down the fast stretch of the river, with local operators and equipment included.

• Remote inns of Okukinu 14 h booking

  Four thermal inns upstream reachable only on foot or by shuttle, with no direct road access: the real disconnection in this area.

• Ropeway and monkey mountain 1.5 h

  Four minutes by ropeway to a viewpoint over the valley, with a monkey enclosure where the animals can be fed.

• Side trip to Yunishigawa Onsen 3 h

  Further up the valley, an even more remote and quiet hot spring village, traditionally linked to defeated Heike clan survivors; reachable by bus from Kinugawa Onsen.

• SL Taiju steam locomotive 1.5 h booking

  A restored steam train running as far as Kinugawa Onsen, with a turntable at Shimo-Imaichi station where the locomotive can be seen being turned.

• Tochiotome strawberry picking 1.5 h booking

  Tochigi is Japan's top strawberry prefecture and the greenhouses in the area open from winter into spring.

• Yuba cooking 1 h

  The thin soy skin of Nikko, served fresh, fried or in broth: the speciality of this whole part of Tochigi.

What only happens on specific dates

• Yunishigawa snow hut festival late January to early March
• Kinugawa demon festival late January to late February
• Fireworks over the gorge Saturdays from August to early October

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