Izu Oshima

Kanto, Japan · Remote island, Mountain, Sea / Beach

A volcanic island belonging to Tokyo, an hour and three quarters away by jetfoil, and it works all year: a forty-five-minute path crosses the black lava flow to the Mihara crater, some three hundred metres across, and loops right around it on foot; east of it opens the Ura-sabaku, the only plain that official Japanese maps label a desert. Afterwards, an open-air hot spring on the rocks at sunset and bekko sushi cured with island chilli.

The essentials

Getting there

Ferry or plane — Tokai Kisen jetfoil from Takeshiba terminal in Tokyo (1h45, two or more sailings a day, about ¥10,400), or the large overnight ferry (leaves around 22:00, arrives around 6:00, from about ¥6,400); jetfoils also run from Atami (45 min, about ¥6,600) and, seasonally, from Ito, Kurihama or Tateyama. New Central Air flies from Chofu airport in western Tokyo (25 min, about three flights a day, ¥13,800). Boats dock at Motomachi or Okata depending on the wind, and jetfoils are cancelled in rough seas; buses on the island are sparse and renting a car is worthwhile.

Frequently asked questions about Izu Oshima

What to do in Izu Oshima: 26 activities

• Mount Mihara crater rim walk 3.5 h must-see

  From Mihara Sanchoguchi, a paved path of about 45 minutes crosses the black 1986 lava flow to the crater, 300-350 m across and about 200 m deep, which you can circle on a gravel trail (o-hachi meguri). There is no shade at all: bring a hat, water and closed shoes. Buses from Motomachi take about 25 minutes and are infrequent.

• Ura-sabaku ash desert 2.5 h must-see Oshima (costa este) · 30 min

  A plain of black scoria east of Mount Mihara, the only area labelled a 'desert' on Japan's official maps. Walk in from the crater (about 2.5 hours linking to the Oshima Onsen Hotel) or drive the Tsuki to Sabaku Line track to the car park and walk 30 minutes to the Kushigatayama lookout. In wind and fog it is easy to lose your bearings: stay on the marked trail.

• Bekko-zushi, the island's sushi 1 h

  White fish marinated in soy with the island's green chilli, which gives it a tortoiseshell (bekko) sheen and a gentle heat. Sushiko, facing Motomachi port, and Minato-zushi in Habu serve it (a nigiri set is around ¥1,750).

• Hama-no-yu seaside open-air bath 1 h

  A mixed open-air hot spring (swimsuits required) three minutes from Motomachi port, on the rocks of the west coast: at dusk you watch the sunset and, in clear winter air, Mount Fuji. Open 13:00-19:00 (from 11:00 in July and August); about ¥300. There is no indoor bath, only showers.

• Camellia Festival (Tsubaki Matsuri) 3 h only from late January to late March

  The island's big event, running from late January or early February to late March: stage shows at Motomachi port, dances by anko (women in the island's traditional dress), events in the three camellia gardens and extra boats from Tokyo. In 2026 it ran from 1 February to 22 March.

• Great strata cross-section (Chiso Dai-setsudanmen) 0.5 h Oshima (costa suroeste) · 15 min

  A roadside cut about 600 m long and 30 m high on the ring road south of Motomachi, where ash from eruptions that come every 150-200 years is stacked like a layer cake (locals call it the 'baumkuchen'). You see it from the roadside; a bus from Motomachi takes about 20 minutes to the Chiso Setsudanmen-mae stop.

• Habu port and its old quarter 2 h Oshima (Habu) · 35 min

  A crater flooded by a tsunami in 1703 and opened to the sea in the 19th century, it became a refuge port for whalers and fishing boats. Up the slope stand old stone-and-timber houses: the former Jinnomaru shipowner's residence and the Minatoya inn, now a museum on the travelling dancers who inspired Kawabata; both free. Finish at the lookout above the port.

• Oshima Park camellia garden 1.5 h Oshima (Senzu) · 30 min

  About 3,700 cultivated camellias of 450 varieties plus 5,000 wild ones over seven hectares on the east coast; an International Camellia Garden of Excellence. It blooms November to April, peaking January to March. Free entry; about 35 minutes by bus from Motomachi.

• Sunset Palm Line by bike at dusk 2 h

  A cycle and walking path of about 5 km along the west coast north of Motomachi, with palms, lava and Mount Fuji across the sea. Bikes can be rented at the port (around ¥1,500 a day). For sunset, head to the reddish Akabu cliff north of Motomachi.

• Camellia oil in Motomachi 0.5 h

  Camellia oil has been pressed on the island for centuries for hair, skin and cooking. In Motomachi there are family-run presses with shops, such as Takada Seiyusho, where you can see the process and buy direct; camellia soaps and cosmetics are sold in the port shops too.

• Croquettes and taiyaki in Habu 1 h Oshima (Habu) · 35 min

  On the harbour street, Ukai Shoten fries homemade croquettes at neighbourhood prices and Shimakyo Bonten makes taiyaki, including one with batter flavoured with ashitaba, the local herb. They are small shops with short hours and irregular closing days: go in the morning or around lunchtime.

• Diving at Akinohama and the north coast 4 h booking Oshima (Okata) · 15 min

  Oshima is one of the closest shore-diving spots to Tokyo: at Akinohama, near Okata port, you walk in to lava walls with nudibranchs, tropical fish carried by the Kuroshio current in summer and autumn and sometimes turtles. Done with local dive shops, booked in advance and with certification (or a try-dive).

• Geonous museum (former Volcano Museum) 1.5 h

  Reopened in July 2025 after a full overhaul: volcanoes and geology, plants and wildlife, and life alongside the volcano, including the evacuation of the entire island in the 1986 eruption, with an 8K projection room. Ground floor free; exhibition about ¥820. 10:00-16:30 (from 9:00 after the overnight ferry); closed Wednesdays.

• Gojinka Onsen (Airando Center) 1.5 h

  Public bathhouse by Motomachi port with a large bath, jets, jacuzzi, sauna and a heated 25 m pool. ¥710; opens at 6:30 on days the overnight ferry from Tokyo arrives (otherwise 9:00) until 21:00. Closed Thursdays and the second Wednesday of the month; the three-day pass also covers Hama-no-yu.

• Kusaya and izakaya in Motomachi 2 h

  Kusaya is fish (horse mackerel or flying fish) cured in a fermented brine that is reused for decades: it smells strong and tastes milder than it promises. Order it grilled at Motomachi's taverns, which are about all the nightlife the island has; many close early, so book or arrive before 8 pm.

• Mihara Sanchoguchi lookout 1 h

  For those who don't want to hike: the terrace looks straight across the caldera and the 1986 lava flow that stopped just short of it, and on clear winter days Mount Fuji rises over the sea. There are food stalls and a small geopark information point at weekends.

• Oshima Onsen Hotel hot spring 1.5 h Oshima (ladera del Mihara) · 25 min

  The only hotel on the slopes of Mount Mihara opens its baths to day visitors 6:00-9:00 and 13:00-21:00 (¥800): an open-air bath facing the volcano over unbroken forest. It is the natural end point of the crater and Ura-sabaku walk.

• Stargazing on Mount Mihara 1.5 h

  With no town on the western horizon and no lights inland, the slopes of Mihara and Ura-sabaku have very dark skies two hours from Tokyo. There are no buses at night: rent a car or join a guided geopark night tour, booked in advance. Bring a warm layer; it gets very windy up there.

• Summer festival and fireworks 3 h only one Saturday in early August

  On a Saturday in early August (the 8th in 2026), Motomachi port fills with stalls and concerts from 17:00, and at 20:30 about a thousand fireworks go up over the sea, seen at very close range. Accommodation sells out that weekend.

• Swimming at Kobohama beach 3 h only 18 Jul - 16 Aug

  A black-sand beach a short walk south of Motomachi, with two beach huts and showers. Lifeguards (9:00-16:00) only work during the official season, mid-July to mid-August (in 2026, 18 July to 16 August); outside it there is no supervision and Pacific swell and currents are serious. With small children, Hinodehama, sheltered by breakwaters, is better.

• Toshiki lava pools 2 h Oshima (costa sur) · 35 min

  Natural pools among lava flows in the south of the island, near Habu, with very clear water and rock fish. The lava is sharp: wear water shoes. Lifeguards only 18 July-16 August (9:00-16:00); with a groundswell or a typhoon nearby, stay out. Campsite and showers next door.

• Fudeshima rock 0.5 h Oshima (costa sureste) · 40 min

  A pinnacle about 30 m high rising from the sea east of Habu, the remnant of the vent of a volcano far older than Mount Mihara. Roadside lookout; you need a car or bike.

• Oshima milk and ashitaba ice cream 0.5 h

  Oshima was a dairy island until the mid-20th century; Burat House, in the north, sells farm ice cream, gelato and hot milk. In Motomachi, the Triton ice-cream shop makes ashitaba ice cream.

• Oshima Park Zoo 1 h Oshima (Senzu) · 30 min

  A small free zoo next to the camellia garden, with about 750 captive animals of 65 species: lemurs on a large monkey mountain, muntjacs, peafowl. It is basic and some enclosures are dated; an easy stop with children, not a reason to travel.

• Sakura-kabu, the 800-year-old cherry 0.5 h Oshima (Senzu) · 30 min

  A wild Oshima cherry more than 800 years old and a Special Natural Monument: a huge, twisted trunk in a forest clearing on the east coast, near Oshima Park. Its white blossom comes in late March and early April.

• Tsubaki Hana Garden 1 h

  A private camellia garden on the slope above Motomachi, with winter views of Mount Fuji; entry about ¥950. The old 'squirrel village' has closed (the Taiwanese squirrel is an invasive species); there is now a rabbit enclosure where you feed them from outside the fence for ¥100.

What only happens on specific dates

• Camellia Festival (Tsubaki Matsuri) from late January to late March
• Swimming at Kobohama beach 18 Jul - 16 Aug
• Summer festival and fireworks one Saturday in early August

Chains well with

More destinations in Kanto