Kanto, Japan · Remote island, Mountain, Sea / Beach
A volcanic island belonging to Tokyo, under two hours away by jetfoil, with an active crater you can walk around, a black ash desert and hot springs facing Mount Fuji. In winter, hundreds of camellia varieties; in summer, lava pools and diving.
Ferry or plane — Tokai Kisen jetfoil from Takeshiba terminal in Tokyo (1h45, two or more sailings a day, about ¥10,400), or the large overnight ferry (leaves around 22:00, arrives around 6:00, from about ¥6,400); jetfoils also run from Atami (45 min, about ¥6,600) and, seasonally, from Ito, Kurihama or Tateyama. New Central Air flies from Chofu airport in western Tokyo (25 min, about three flights a day, ¥13,800). Boats dock at Motomachi or Okata depending on the wind, and jetfoils are cancelled in rough seas; buses on the island are sparse and renting a car is worthwhile.
From Mihara Sanchoguchi, a paved path of about 45 minutes crosses the black 1986 lava flow to the crater, 300-350 m across and about 200 m deep, which you can circle on a gravel trail (o-hachi meguri). There is no shade at all: bring a hat, water and closed shoes. Buses from Motomachi take about 25 minutes and are infrequent.
A plain of black scoria east of Mount Mihara, the only area labelled a 'desert' on Japan's official maps. Walk in from the crater (about 2.5 hours linking to the Oshima Onsen Hotel) or drive the Tsuki to Sabaku Line track to the car park and walk 30 minutes to the Kushigatayama lookout. In wind and fog it is easy to lose your bearings: stay on the marked trail.
White fish marinated in soy with the island's green chilli, which gives it a tortoiseshell (bekko) sheen and a gentle heat. Sushiko, facing Motomachi port, and Minato-zushi in Habu serve it (a nigiri set is around ¥1,750).
A mixed open-air hot spring (swimsuits required) three minutes from Motomachi port, on the rocks of the west coast: at dusk you watch the sunset and, in clear winter air, Mount Fuji. Open 13:00-19:00 (from 11:00 in July and August); about ¥300. There is no indoor bath, only showers.
The island's big event, running from late January or early February to late March: stage shows at Motomachi port, dances by anko (women in the island's traditional dress), events in the three camellia gardens and extra boats from Tokyo. In 2026 it ran from 1 February to 22 March.
A roadside cut about 600 m long and 30 m high on the ring road south of Motomachi, where ash from eruptions that come every 150-200 years is stacked like a layer cake (locals call it the 'baumkuchen'). You see it from the roadside; a bus from Motomachi takes about 20 minutes to the Chiso Setsudanmen-mae stop.
A crater flooded by a tsunami in 1703 and opened to the sea in the 19th century, it became a refuge port for whalers and fishing boats. Up the slope stand old stone-and-timber houses: the former Jinnomaru shipowner's residence and the Minatoya inn, now a museum on the travelling dancers who inspired Kawabata; both free. Finish at the lookout above the port.
About 3,700 cultivated camellias of 450 varieties plus 5,000 wild ones over seven hectares on the east coast; an International Camellia Garden of Excellence. It blooms November to April, peaking January to March. Free entry; about 35 minutes by bus from Motomachi.
A cycle and walking path of about 5 km along the west coast north of Motomachi, with palms, lava and Mount Fuji across the sea. Bikes can be rented at the port (around ¥1,500 a day). For sunset, head to the reddish Akabu cliff north of Motomachi.
Camellia oil has been pressed on the island for centuries for hair, skin and cooking. In Motomachi there are family-run presses with shops, such as Takada Seiyusho, where you can see the process and buy direct; camellia soaps and cosmetics are sold in the port shops too.
On the harbour street, Ukai Shoten fries homemade croquettes at neighbourhood prices and Shimakyo Bonten makes taiyaki, including one with batter flavoured with ashitaba, the local herb. They are small shops with short hours and irregular closing days: go in the morning or around lunchtime.
Oshima is one of the closest shore-diving spots to Tokyo: at Akinohama, near Okata port, you walk in to lava walls with nudibranchs, tropical fish carried by the Kuroshio current in summer and autumn and sometimes turtles. Done with local dive shops, booked in advance and with certification (or a try-dive).
Reopened in July 2025 after a full overhaul: volcanoes and geology, plants and wildlife, and life alongside the volcano, including the evacuation of the entire island in the 1986 eruption, with an 8K projection room. Ground floor free; exhibition about ¥820. 10:00-16:30 (from 9:00 after the overnight ferry); closed Wednesdays.
Public bathhouse by Motomachi port with a large bath, jets, jacuzzi, sauna and a heated 25 m pool. ¥710; opens at 6:30 on days the overnight ferry from Tokyo arrives (otherwise 9:00) until 21:00. Closed Thursdays and the second Wednesday of the month; the three-day pass also covers Hama-no-yu.
Kusaya is fish (horse mackerel or flying fish) cured in a fermented brine that is reused for decades: it smells strong and tastes milder than it promises. Order it grilled at Motomachi's taverns, which are about all the nightlife the island has; many close early, so book or arrive before 8 pm.
For those who don't want to hike: the terrace looks straight across the caldera and the 1986 lava flow that stopped just short of it, and on clear winter days Mount Fuji rises over the sea. There are food stalls and a small geopark information point at weekends.
The only hotel on the slopes of Mount Mihara opens its baths to day visitors 6:00-9:00 and 13:00-21:00 (¥800): an open-air bath facing the volcano over unbroken forest. It is the natural end point of the crater and Ura-sabaku walk.
With no town on the western horizon and no lights inland, the slopes of Mihara and Ura-sabaku have very dark skies two hours from Tokyo. There are no buses at night: rent a car or join a guided geopark night tour, booked in advance. Bring a warm layer; it gets very windy up there.
On a Saturday in early August (the 8th in 2026), Motomachi port fills with stalls and concerts from 17:00, and at 20:30 about a thousand fireworks go up over the sea, seen at very close range. Accommodation sells out that weekend.
A black-sand beach a short walk south of Motomachi, with two beach huts and showers. Lifeguards (9:00-16:00) only work during the official season, mid-July to mid-August (in 2026, 18 July to 16 August); outside it there is no supervision and Pacific swell and currents are serious. With small children, Hinodehama, sheltered by breakwaters, is better.
Natural pools among lava flows in the south of the island, near Habu, with very clear water and rock fish. The lava is sharp: wear water shoes. Lifeguards only 18 July-16 August (9:00-16:00); with a groundswell or a typhoon nearby, stay out. Campsite and showers next door.
A pinnacle about 30 m high rising from the sea east of Habu, the remnant of the vent of a volcano far older than Mount Mihara. Roadside lookout; you need a car or bike.
Oshima was a dairy island until the mid-20th century; Burat House, in the north, sells farm ice cream, gelato and hot milk. In Motomachi, the Triton ice-cream shop makes ashitaba ice cream.
A small free zoo next to the camellia garden, with about 750 captive animals of 65 species: lemurs on a large monkey mountain, muntjacs, peafowl. It is basic and some enclosures are dated; an easy stop with children, not a reason to travel.
A wild Oshima cherry more than 800 years old and a Special Natural Monument: a huge, twisted trunk in a forest clearing on the east coast, near Oshima Park. Its white blossom comes in late March and early April.
A private camellia garden on the slope above Motomachi, with winter views of Mount Fuji; entry about ¥950. The old 'squirrel village' has closed (the Taiwanese squirrel is an invasive species); there is now a rabbit enclosure where you feed them from outside the fence for ¥100.
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