Chubu, Japan · Town / small city, Mountain
One of Niigata's most important shrines, Yahiko Jinja (home to a sword dated 1415 considered the longest preserved at a Japanese shrine), the ropeway up Mount Yahiko with Sea of Japan views on clear days, and the shrine park, with cherry blossoms in spring and maples in autumn.
Train — JR Echigo/Shin'etsu line from Niigata with a transfer at Higashi-Sanjo or Yoshida onto the JR Yahiko line, ~1h21 total, ¥810. A 100% JR East route — the Yahiko line is a JR East local line, not a private railway.
One of Niigata's most important shrines, home to a sword dated 1415 considered the longest preserved at a Japanese shrine; draws large crowds at New Year.
Yahiko is a hot-spring town as well: a handful of ryokan at the foot of the shrine, among them the Minoya, founded in 1701, with baths open to day visitors too.
From 1 to 24 November the grounds fill with thousands of chrysanthemums in competition, including a large floral model rebuilt every year.
A small maple valley beside the shrine crossed by a red bridge; in early November it is lit at night and it is one of the most photographed autumn spots in Niigata.
Climbs the sacred mountain behind the shrine, with views over the Sea of Japan on clear days.
At Yahiko Jinja you do not pray with the usual two claps but with four, a form shared in all Japan only by Izumo Taisha and Usa Jingu; the shrine itself explains it on signs.
A trail of about two hours up the slope to the 634-metre summit, where the Gojinbyo, the tomb of the shrine's deity, stands; you can walk up and take the ropeway down.
From 24 to 26 July the neighbourhoods parade at night with large carved lanterns; it is designated an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.
A circular cabin that rises while rotating a hundred metres above the summit, with views over the Echigo plain, the Sea of Japan and, on very clear days, Sado island.
The street climbing to the shrine still has shops selling sweets, pickles, crafts and local craft beer, among them the small Yahiko Brewing.
Wappa-meshi, steamed rice with fish or vegetables served in a bent cedar container, is the area's classic dish; panda-yaki, a filled bun shaped like a panda, is the sweet everyone buys on the shrine approach street.
One of Japan's public keirin velodromes, with races and betting from April to November; a distinctly untouristed window onto a deeply local sport.
The shrine grounds, with cherry blossoms in spring, maples in autumn, and a small deer enclosure.
Built in 1916 in the shape of a shrine, with a gabled roof and crossed finials on the ridge; it is one of the best-preserved traditional-style stations in the country.
In February residents throw hot onsen water over one another through the streets of the town to ask for health and a good harvest.
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