Tohoku, Japan · Mountain, Lake
One of Japan's three holiest mountains alongside Koyasan and Hieizan, traditionally regarded as the gateway to the afterlife: a barren, sulphurous volcanic landscape around Bodaiji temple, with the turquoise waters of Lake Usori, and home to the itako mediums who are said to speak with the dead during the festival in late July.
Train + bus — Aoimori Railway to Noheji plus the JR Ominato line to Shimokita (through service, no car needed), then a bus to Osore-zan: about 2h30-3h each way. Only 3-4 buses a day, and none from November to April, so plan with room to spare.
The Buddhist temple that administers the whole sacred precinct, with its great entrance torii and main hall; it offers lodging and vegetarian meals to those who stay the night.
Grey, barren ground pocked with sulphur vents, scattered with small Jizo statues and coloured pinwheels left by families in memory of dead children: the traditional Japanese image of the afterlife.
Sleeping inside the sacred precinct itself: shojin ryori dinner and breakfast (vegetarian temple cooking, no alcohol), free access to the hot spring baths and the option of attending the morning service.
From 20 to 24 July, blind itako mediums hold sessions to communicate with deceased relatives; outside these dates there are usually no itako at the temple.
A lake with turquoise water from its high sulphur content (not suitable for swimming), right behind the temple precinct; a small white sand beach, Sainokawara, contrasts with the surrounding volcanic landscape.
The second great festival of the year, in mid-October: more contained than the July one, with rites for the ancestors, the harvest and the protection of the home, and with itako present as well.
The old trail from Mutsu to the crater over Mount Kamafuse, included among Japan's historic mountain routes: you walk up as people did before the bus existed.
Several very plain wooden huts with free hot spring baths inside the temple precinct itself, open to any visitor.
The precinct opens at 6:00 and the 'paradise beach' on Lake Usori is empty and steaming at dawn: the quietest moment on the whole mountain.
An almost perfect 828 m cone reflected in Lake Usori; about 5-6 hours there and back from the shore, only recommended for experienced walkers.
On the way to the mountain, in Mutsu: a 1908 imperial navy croquette recipe revived by the naval district of Ominato, eaten standing up in the town's butchers' shops and cafes.
Tell us how many days you have and what you are interested in, and the planner builds a realistic itinerary with real train times.
Open the planner